Sewing, knitting, embroidery, easy and fashion blog

Something new concerning the fabrics! We just received the beautiful Cotton + Steel printed fabrics.

We could not resist to the beautiful well fitting from the Frock collection. These are two rayon fabrics with small red or blue-green triangles.

We also fell for small cross with yellow mustard and mint green backgrounds in the Cotton & Steel basics collection. These are good qualities cottons. The colors range has a nice sweetness.

This is the kind of fabric you would like to see sewn into a light jacket, shorts, dress ...

Mint green and white poplin with golden triangles you can see, it's a pretty fabric by Art Gallery, from the Arizona limited collection. Going with everything cotton fabric while being chic with these little golden triangles, it will delight your entire wardrobe!

We are very happy to show you these little wonders, especially that ... shh, the rest is coming in the following months!

The sewing thread is a major element to consider when you start sewing. With the pattern, the fabric and the sewing machine of course.

In order to choose its sewing thread, must be taken into account:

- Color: the sewing thread color must matched the fabric. The dominant color of our fabric is chosen. Whatever our fabric is floral, striped or geometric patterns. In general, it is better to rely on a darker color than our fabric.
As it is difficult to choose a color on internet, we offer that you send us a sample of your fabric in order we adapt the color of thread for you for free.

- Material: the most common material in sewing thread is polyester. Cotton is also available but it is quite expensive. Polyester sewing thread offer a wider choice of colors for an economical price.

- Quality: be careful, it is important not to skimp on sewing thread quality! There are a multitude of very cheap sewing machine threads but of poor quality which, over time, will damage your sewing machine. So beware to supermarket sewing threads or online kits.

Unfortunately, we know very well the problem through our sewing machine repair service...
We advise you to choose a slightly more expensive sewing thread but high quality. The d'A&A sewig thread is manufactured in France and has never caused any trouble to our machines...

It is possible to test the thread quality with its strength, the sewing thread that we offer resists to a 1.1kg weight.

The various kinds of sewing threads;

- The classic sewing thread: for making clothes and all type of decorations. This is the universal thread for family sewing machines. We offer 240 colors.

You can choose different packages : in small reel 200m, average reel 1000m or cone 5000m which is particularly suitable for the serger but can also be used in sewing machine with an adapter: the cone holder.

- The elastic sewing thread: thread particularly used to make smocking or gathers. Knitting, it is also used to tighten ribs of a sock.

- Overlock thread:thread with bouffant appearance. This thread is particularly used with the serger or coverstitch machine for the knitted fabric sewing. Therefore it is proposed by 2000m or 10000m cone. Overlock thread is used frequently for lingerie, swimwear and sportswear.

If you are new to sewing, you'll need quickly to have a mix of the main colors and especially white, black and raw. If you sew regularly, it is recommended to take 1000m reels more economical.

In addition to the small sewing box, we have prepared pretty briefcases, vintage style and liberty, including a three sizes sewing kit!

We had fun to concoct those boxes. We wanted to offer both pretty decorative briefcases that can contain all the necessary material for sewing in perfect quality.

Each of the boxes is designed for beginners or experienced dressmakers, the proposed equipment is of high quality. Fabrics, buttons and biases have been carefully chosen for a nice assortment that can be used to create pocket, bag, small decorative objects, etc ...

The smaller flowery briefcases (21 x 10 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small dark wooden buttons

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

The average flowered briefcase box (23 x 17 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small blue wooden buttons, red, yellow and green

- 3 pieces of cotton fabric 20 x 140 cm blue, fuchsia pink and ecru

- 1 meter bias with matching flowers

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

The large flowered briefcase (29 x 20 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small blue wooden buttons, red, yellow and green

- 3 pieces of cotton fabric 20 x 140 cm blue, fuchsia pink and ecru

- 2 matching pink and green thread spools

- 1 meter bias with matching flowers

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

Here inside optional cute vintage styled metal boxes, containing all the necessary material for sewing:

Our A&A's designing works allows us to test all fabric tracing patterns methods.

But what are the tools used and what are they for? We will attempt to answer these questions in detail.

In sewing, drawing on fabric is a must for
1/ Report outline of your pattern and mark the seam lines
2/ Draw seam allowances which also correspond to the cut lines of your fabric
3/ Transpose the seam lines on the other fabric layers

What are the tools to draw on fabric?The fabric tracing is very important to mark the values seams and your pattern outline on your fabric and the sleeve marks, etc... There are many tools which can have a different use depending on the medium and the desired accuracy.

- The chalk: The most widespread drawing tool, the tailor chalk, available in several colors allows to produce moderately coarse lines on different colors fabrics at lower cost, available on a-et-a.com in 3 colors set: white, red and yellow. The chalk must be trimmed regularly to stay quite fine and accurate, it requires so a chalk sharpener (here blue).
- The chalk roulette: is generally used for wool but requests that the seam is carried out in the aftermath because the powder disappears quickly. Its layout is thinner than traditional chalk.
- The pencil: more accurate than chalk, pencil needs to be purchased in several colors to match different fabric colors. It too must be trimmed regularly with a pencil sharpener to gain accuracy.
- The mechanical pencil: may exist with more or less thick leads, the more accurate is the 0.9 mm mechanical pencil allowing, unlike chalk or pencil, a thin and precise line. It is ideal for drawing, there are some with thick chalk (here in red), white (here in purple, from Prym)or with pink, white and blue chalk refill (here in red and metal). The eraser can erase the lines directly, if not, as for chalk and pencil, the line goes in the wash.
- The fineliner: the fabric fineliner can have different thicknesses, those presented come from Clover, they have the advantage of a clear blue light marking but well visible which readily disappears with water.
- Lines marker : allows you to draw with a fabric that clearly marks the fold as wild silk. Is used for instance when you can not make pencil line because the fabric is clear or transparent (see our Clover model here).

Once the drawing done, it is important to copy the seam lines on the other fabric layers. You then use the famous roulette, carbon paper and a cutting board to avoid damaging your table.

To transpose your sewing lines, you only need a cutting board, some carbon paper contrasting over your fabric and place over your fabric cut pieces to be transposed. You then draw your pattern layout with the roulette which will transpose the corresponding dots on the other fabric sheet through carbon paper.

We have several tools choices for this:

- Classic roulette : Vintage wooden fabric roulette. Handy roulette with a nice beech handle.
- The ergonomic roulette: Very nice because this roulette fits snugly to the hand. This is the roulette that we normally use in our design department.
- The double roulette: it is used with another method which consists in tracing first time the pattern outline along the seam allowance and then trace by hand, on the other side, the pattern outline.
- The carbon paper: essential to copy your pattern outline, the carbon paper is available in several large sheets of different colors (here 3 sheets 54 x 42 cm in red, white and blue). This copying paper allow to copy many outlines and can be used very long.
- The cutting board: thick media to protect your table, the cutting board allows all types of work: copying lines with roulette, cutting with rotary cutter, etc... Available in 2 sizes in a-et-a.com here.

- The 50 cm sewing Japanese rule: essential element for all designers who respect themselves;). This 50 cm Japanese rule can easily transpose seam allowances on your fabric thanks to its in cm horizontal and vertical scales. Our Clover rule has even a 1.5 cm green contrast part corresponding to the seam allowance commonly used. Japanese rule is also essential for all pattern designings.
- The rectangular rule: very convenient for drawing parallel lines on the fabric because it maintains the fabric due to its large area, it also prevents the fabric from moving when drawing. It can also be very useful for rectangles paths and throught the fabric bias, it is ideal for patchwork work.

And you, what tracing tools do you use in sewing?

They are beautiful and flowered, it is the arrival in our shop of new fancy floral fabrics and bias.

We fell in love with these flowered printed fabrics by Lecien (Japanese fabrics) in liberty style. So we took assorted bias! Flowered fabrics and bias brighten up our Frou Frou range.

It is already easy to imagine the pretty dresses, inside pocket, jacket with these floral fabrics.

Mustard yellow make a pretty note accompanied the fall, while the raspberry and blue-green are perfect to brighten up our outfits.

Floral bias can be used in garment finishes but will also be very attractive as wristband and other jewelery desgns.

No hesitation! : floral Lecien fabrics are sold by 10 cm and bias the meter.

The youngest of our sewing patterns is out! We propose, in line with the baby's vest Tangara, a small baby's set to make in organic jersey: The baby's vest and shorts Kiwi..

The set can be done with a sewing machine or better, with a serger. The pattern has been designed to make it easier for beginners: the cover of the pattern comes with two full size boards and corresponding explanation booklets. We made an illustrated step by step to easily and visually follow the explanations of each of the patterns.

The pattern of the baby Kiwi set can be achieved with organic taupe jersey et a green flowers bias, so it fits to both boys and girls!

There are mainly scissors for sewing: two kinds of scissors, scissors conventional all-metal type "Nogent" in France or scissors metal blades and ergonomic plastic handles.In these two categories, there is provided a choice of blade lengths that range from 16.5 to 25 cm (see above). The classics are a great value with a more traditional appearance regrindable, those ergonomic handles are adapted to the shape of the hand but are sometimes less accurate cutting of the end (the shape of the tip is coarser than the classic scissors to check when buying.) The cut-son can quickly cut the son at the end of a machine seam. For embroidery, there are small scissors short and thin blades. The pinking shears temporarily help limit fraying or make a decorative finish in tissues that do not fray, but beware these scissors can wear very quickly if they are not of good quality.

Pinking shears

Can we take all kinds of scissors to cut fabric?

fabric to be well cut, demand a certain quality of scissors and precision in cutting. For a beginner who buys first prices scissors, one quickly realizes that all evil scissors cut a little delicate fabrics or thick etc ... We must therefore invest in a good pair of scissors, it is an investment that you never regret, well maintained scissors keep indefinitely

Embroidery scissors

Is there any sewing scissors adapted to left-handed person?

yes, a range of scissors was created specially for left-handed

Métal thread-cut

What size to choose for scissors?

There are different lengths of scissors, those who are very long are reserved for professionals who need long blades to quickly cut long lengths of fabric, but they are heavy and tiring to handle.

Nogent scissors

Which scissors to any activity (embroidery, sewing, knitting)?

For sewing, you need a pair of scissors average length will only cut the fabric with pointed ends (for greater cutting accuracy), a pair of scissors will only cut paper (for employers) and a pair of embroidery scissors for all small delicate and precise cuts (make a buttonhole, pinking etc. ..). When you sew much to the sewing machine, it is also useful to have a wire cutter. For embroidery, embroidery scissors is essential and it is also used for knitting and crochet.

Embroidery scissors

What are indispensable scissors when you start?

A pair of scissors for fabric, scissors and paper scissors embroidery, yes, I know, it's three pairs of scissors to buy!

How can my scissors cut over time?

Still well in time there is a rule of thumb: the fabric scissors cut the fabric and paper scissors cut the paperdo. In fact, the paper is very abrasive blades of scissors, so if you discipline yourself not to follow this rule, "fabric" scissors cut paper will also not intersect anything good! But do not worry, nothing is irreversible, if you have a pair of "classic" scissors you can make sharpening (that is anyway an operation to do make time to time to maintain his scissors.) It was a trade in endangered but thanks to the internet fairy, there are now grinders mail . For scissors plastic handles, there are small individual sharpeners that can refresh yourself its blades. Lately appeared on the Japanese market scissors blades with an exceptional quality of cut, which even allow you to cut both fabric and paper, as professionals we use the paper pattern fusible and this allows us to cut both fabric and boss when the boss was stuck on the fabric.