Sewing, knitting, embroidery, easy and fashion blog

We are always looking for new products to offer for sewing, embroidery, knitting or crochet. And, as you may have noticed, lately trimmings resurfaced in spring-summer outfits!

light ladder hemstitch

The ladder hemstitch is a very good idea to add a touch of originality to your small needleworks. This small hemstitch (2 mm, 100% cotton) will leave just a glimpse of tiny squares of skin, it will be perfect to brighten up a blouse or a dress, like this one:

The ladder hemstitch tape is easy to apply by folding the fabric to the edge where the hemstitch begins to let only glimpse it, the remainder being counted as a seam allowance.

You can use the ladder hemstitch with many fabrics, plain or patterned: it is available in 17 colors including 1 colors ready to dye.

The ladder hemstitch, once hand-embroidered on tablecloths, is now encrusted perfectly in a blouse, a top or flowing dress.

Also find our by the meter embroidered ladder hemstitch in linen here or in cotton here .

Click on the following picture to access the ladder hemstitch product:

You start sewing or you sew already for a while and now, you can find the patterns with or without seam allowances. When you are a novice, you get lost and you do not understand the "why and how" and when we used to sew, we are adept of "with seam allowances" or "without seam allowances."

As a professional, I will try to explain the advantages and disadvantages of each method.

Patterns without seam allowances (or seam allowances not included)

First, working without seam allowances allows you to check all assembly lengths coherence: for example, does the collar fit the neckline where it will be mounted? What is the value of the ease (*) of a sleeve? etc ...

Within our design office all patterns are developed initially without seam allowances, we also digitalize without seam allowances and then we check with one of the tools of our software all coherence lengths (see above, but also the side seams etc ..).

So if you buy a pattern without seam allowances, you will have to add them on the fabric and make a mark

Advantages: assembly accuracy for fine finishes and facilitates all delicate assemblies, easy to modify because you know where is the original outline of the pattern. For a model which you are not sure, you can take the precaution to add larger seam allowances for a fitting.

Cons: this method is long because you have to add the seam allowances accurately and you have to do the pattern outline marking, so you need good marking tools, accurate and lasting the time of your assembly.

Going back to our design office, when we have checked all our pattern, we add the seam allowances because they are patterns for industry and all of the adjusment fittings were made, then we adapt the seam allowances to the assembly type and to the manufacturer's(**) hardware. 0.5 or 0.7 or 1 cm etc ... following sewing types.

Patterns with seam allowances (or seam allowances included)

So if you buy a pattern seam allowances included, you don't have any additional work to do on the fabric, you can set up, pin and straight cut along the pattern edge, you just need to know the value of the reserve.

Advantages: much faster to cut and assemble, no sewing lines to match.

Cons: if the assembly is very technical, you don't have the pattern outline mark to guide you, it requires great sewing techniques mastery. The seam allowances have been set, you do not have much room to maneuver in case of fitting.

Our conclusion: prefer patterns seam allowances included for all simple clothing that you don't want spend too much time.

But if you get into the "beautiful" for which you want the hang perfect which implies some fittings, if you are precise and meticulous take a pattern without seam allowances.

Lexicon:

*ease: the sleeve head is always slightly larger than the armhole, on which it is mounted, this difference in length is placed, assembling, at the top of the sleeve over a small distance from both sides of the shoulder line. These are not gathers, it's a mounting ease, ie we play on the ability of the fabric to absorb a small difference in length when sewing. This ease allows to garnish the round part of the shoulder without the sleeve pulls.ease: the sleeve head is always slightly larger than the armhole, on which it is mounted, this difference in length is placed, assembling, at the top of the sleeve over a small distance from both sides of the shoulder line. These are not gathers, it's a mounting ease, ie we play on the ability of the fabric to absorb a small difference in length when sewing. This ease allows to garnish the round part of the shoulder without the sleeve pulls.

**manufacturer: outsourcing company dealing only with sewing clothing collections

The sewing thread is a major element to consider when you start sewing. With the pattern, the fabric and the sewing machine of course.

In order to choose its sewing thread, must be taken into account:

- Color: the sewing thread color must matched the fabric. The dominant color of our fabric is chosen. Whatever our fabric is floral, striped or geometric patterns. In general, it is better to rely on a darker color than our fabric.
As it is difficult to choose a color on internet, we offer that you send us a sample of your fabric in order we adapt the color of thread for you for free.

- Material: the most common material in sewing thread is polyester. Cotton is also available but it is quite expensive. Polyester sewing thread offer a wider choice of colors for an economical price.

- Quality: be careful, it is important not to skimp on sewing thread quality! There are a multitude of very cheap sewing machine threads but of poor quality which, over time, will damage your sewing machine. So beware to supermarket sewing threads or online kits.

Unfortunately, we know very well the problem through our sewing machine repair service...
We advise you to choose a slightly more expensive sewing thread but high quality. The d'A&A sewig thread is manufactured in France and has never caused any trouble to our machines...

It is possible to test the thread quality with its strength, the sewing thread that we offer resists to a 1.1kg weight.

The various kinds of sewing threads;

- The classic sewing thread: for making clothes and all type of decorations. This is the universal thread for family sewing machines. We offer 240 colors.

You can choose different packages : in small reel 200m, average reel 1000m or cone 5000m which is particularly suitable for the serger but can also be used in sewing machine with an adapter: the cone holder.

- The elastic sewing thread: thread particularly used to make smocking or gathers. Knitting, it is also used to tighten ribs of a sock.

- Overlock thread:thread with bouffant appearance. This thread is particularly used with the serger or coverstitch machine for the knitted fabric sewing. Therefore it is proposed by 2000m or 10000m cone. Overlock thread is used frequently for lingerie, swimwear and sportswear.

If you are new to sewing, you'll need quickly to have a mix of the main colors and especially white, black and raw. If you sew regularly, it is recommended to take 1000m reels more economical.

In the series of sewing books "Seamstresses Secrets ", here one dedicated to romantic clothes.

these sewing books of this set are translations from japanese books.

You will find 21 sewing models awith their explanations with pictures accompanied, of course, with full size patterns.

Many of today models are presented: tunics, shorts, dresses, skirts, blouses and pants.

This sewing book has many models in eyelet lace (broderie anglaise) which provides a very romantic feel.

The patterns are available in S, M, L and XL sizes, but be careful to properly compare your measurements with those of the book.

Details:

What we liked:

The models presented in this book are relatively simple, and therefore ideal for beginners for sewing. The presentation is original bringing a nice vintage look to the work. There are the basic sewing: Bermuda shorts, blouses, simple dress, a little buttoned blouse, trousers with elasticated waist ... The explanations are in the form of diagrams, step by step, very clearly at the end of the book as we usually find them in Japanese sewing books.

If you want a simple book to start sewing clothes for you, this book will not disappoint.

Another plus:

A community blog dedicated to Japanese fashion presentes all these seamstresses works made from this book:The Japan Couture Addicts. To see all the achievements from the Romantic Clothing book, it's here.

The Prym Color Snaps (press studs) just arrived ! We loved their colors and shapes, so we all have for sale. Plastic color snaps studs existed for KAM pliers, here they are available now for the Prym Vario pliers.

You will be able to put some everywhere, children's clothing, accessories, etc. These snaps are practical and decorative. If you do not like to sew buttonholes, snaps are made for you!

Be careful, you'll need a special tool to add to your Prym Vario pliers.

The Color Snaps (press studs) are available as Round shaped but also as Heart and Star shaped.

Click below to find the heart shaped snaps (here in mint green):

Find here the star shaped Color Snaps (here golden):

And discover the multitude of colors available as round shaped snaps ! (40 colors) :

To illustrate, here's an example of round light blue Color Snaps:

We fill up of fluorescent this new year to give pep to our ideas!

Therefore find our braids with pompoms in fluorescent pink, yellow and green as our zippers with rhinestones yellow, green and fluorescent pink as well.

Braids can be sewn on the edge for making cushions, armchairs tablecloth and even a clothing or an accessory like the edge of a scarf, coat, etc.

Zippers have their teeth in colored rhinestones which can give a very original look to an outfit

Find our fluorescent pompom braids here and our fluorescent rhinestones zippers here (also available in white and garnet).

In addition to the small sewing box, we have prepared pretty briefcases, vintage style and liberty, including a three sizes sewing kit!

We had fun to concoct those boxes. We wanted to offer both pretty decorative briefcases that can contain all the necessary material for sewing in perfect quality.

Each of the boxes is designed for beginners or experienced dressmakers, the proposed equipment is of high quality. Fabrics, buttons and biases have been carefully chosen for a nice assortment that can be used to create pocket, bag, small decorative objects, etc ...

The smaller flowery briefcases (21 x 10 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small dark wooden buttons

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

The average flowered briefcase box (23 x 17 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small blue wooden buttons, red, yellow and green

- 3 pieces of cotton fabric 20 x 140 cm blue, fuchsia pink and ecru

- 1 meter bias with matching flowers

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

The large flowered briefcase (29 x 20 cm) contains:

- 1 pair of 17.5cm tailor scissors for fabric

- 4 small blue wooden buttons, red, yellow and green

- 3 pieces of cotton fabric 20 x 140 cm blue, fuchsia pink and ecru

- 2 matching pink and green thread spools

- 1 meter bias with matching flowers

Its metal box matching, containing small sewing kit is optional.

Here inside optional cute vintage styled metal boxes, containing all the necessary material for sewing:

At A&A patrons, we love the vintage pretty boxes and couture quality tools!

We therefore prepared a sewing kit filled with essential for the couturier, with all the high quality hardware.

The kit is available in Christmas version (as below) or in flowery version (as hereinafter).

In each kit you will find:

- A pair of embroidery scissors (red for the Christmas version, stork for the flowery version)

- A 200 fine pins box

- A thimble

- A tape-measure

- A seam-ripper

This sewing kit includes the essentials, for beginners or experienced, in a nice little box transportable anywhere. The Christmas sewing kit is a perfect present and seasonal ;).

Here is the spring version of the sewing kit with it's liberty style:

Find here the Christmas sewing kit box and the flowery box there.

Our A&A's designing works allows us to test all fabric tracing patterns methods.

But what are the tools used and what are they for? We will attempt to answer these questions in detail.

In sewing, drawing on fabric is a must for
1/ Report outline of your pattern and mark the seam lines
2/ Draw seam allowances which also correspond to the cut lines of your fabric
3/ Transpose the seam lines on the other fabric layers

What are the tools to draw on fabric?The fabric tracing is very important to mark the values seams and your pattern outline on your fabric and the sleeve marks, etc... There are many tools which can have a different use depending on the medium and the desired accuracy.

- The chalk: The most widespread drawing tool, the tailor chalk, available in several colors allows to produce moderately coarse lines on different colors fabrics at lower cost, available on a-et-a.com in 3 colors set: white, red and yellow. The chalk must be trimmed regularly to stay quite fine and accurate, it requires so a chalk sharpener (here blue).
- The chalk roulette: is generally used for wool but requests that the seam is carried out in the aftermath because the powder disappears quickly. Its layout is thinner than traditional chalk.
- The pencil: more accurate than chalk, pencil needs to be purchased in several colors to match different fabric colors. It too must be trimmed regularly with a pencil sharpener to gain accuracy.
- The mechanical pencil: may exist with more or less thick leads, the more accurate is the 0.9 mm mechanical pencil allowing, unlike chalk or pencil, a thin and precise line. It is ideal for drawing, there are some with thick chalk (here in red), white (here in purple, from Prym)or with pink, white and blue chalk refill (here in red and metal). The eraser can erase the lines directly, if not, as for chalk and pencil, the line goes in the wash.
- The fineliner: the fabric fineliner can have different thicknesses, those presented come from Clover, they have the advantage of a clear blue light marking but well visible which readily disappears with water.
- Lines marker : allows you to draw with a fabric that clearly marks the fold as wild silk. Is used for instance when you can not make pencil line because the fabric is clear or transparent (see our Clover model here).

Once the drawing done, it is important to copy the seam lines on the other fabric layers. You then use the famous roulette, carbon paper and a cutting board to avoid damaging your table.

To transpose your sewing lines, you only need a cutting board, some carbon paper contrasting over your fabric and place over your fabric cut pieces to be transposed. You then draw your pattern layout with the roulette which will transpose the corresponding dots on the other fabric sheet through carbon paper.

We have several tools choices for this:

- Classic roulette : Vintage wooden fabric roulette. Handy roulette with a nice beech handle.
- The ergonomic roulette: Very nice because this roulette fits snugly to the hand. This is the roulette that we normally use in our design department.
- The double roulette: it is used with another method which consists in tracing first time the pattern outline along the seam allowance and then trace by hand, on the other side, the pattern outline.
- The carbon paper: essential to copy your pattern outline, the carbon paper is available in several large sheets of different colors (here 3 sheets 54 x 42 cm in red, white and blue). This copying paper allow to copy many outlines and can be used very long.
- The cutting board: thick media to protect your table, the cutting board allows all types of work: copying lines with roulette, cutting with rotary cutter, etc... Available in 2 sizes in a-et-a.com here.

- The 50 cm sewing Japanese rule: essential element for all designers who respect themselves;). This 50 cm Japanese rule can easily transpose seam allowances on your fabric thanks to its in cm horizontal and vertical scales. Our Clover rule has even a 1.5 cm green contrast part corresponding to the seam allowance commonly used. Japanese rule is also essential for all pattern designings.
- The rectangular rule: very convenient for drawing parallel lines on the fabric because it maintains the fabric due to its large area, it also prevents the fabric from moving when drawing. It can also be very useful for rectangles paths and throught the fabric bias, it is ideal for patchwork work.

And you, what tracing tools do you use in sewing?

Suspenders are both practical and decorative. We had idea to do a little tutorial to show you the manufacture of suspenders in our way: simple and fast.

The material:

- 2 rectangles of stars fabric
7x75 cm for 2 to 4 years child,
7x85 cm for 6 to 8 years,
7x90 cm for 10 to 14 years,
9x110 cm for 16 years to adult.
- sewing thread matching the fabric
- 4 25 mm suspenders clasps for child, 36 mm for adult.
- 2 adjustment clips 25mm (child) or 36mm (adult)
- 1 suspenders cross-brace 25mm (child) or 36mm (adult)
- 2 black or white elastic band 2cm wide x 15cm

Tools:

- loop turner (indispensable)
- cisors
- sewing machine, of course!

We made a video just for you to show each step in picture (you can activate the English subtitles by clicking on CC):

To help you achieving, we added the tutorial, with step by step photos:

1 / Iron each cut strip of fabric

2 / Fold each strip of fabric right side against right and stitch to 1cm from the edge then Iron the strips seam very flat before returning it.

3 / Once the strips returned with the loop turner iron it the seam centered.

4 / Slip in each of the suspenders on the future front part the adjustment buckles, fold the fabric twice and stitch.

5 / Now slip in each of the suspenders, the suspender clips, then move the strip in hand in the adjustment buckle by ensuring the buckle and the clamp are on the same side. Tighten the adjustment buckle on the strip.

6 / Slip each strip crossing them in the cross-brace.

7 / Push each of the elastic bands in the back part of each strip with the loop turner (pass through the seam) up to 30 cm in height, secure it with a pin and stitch.

8 / Place in each of suspenders, the back clamps, fold the fabric twice and stitch.

Well done! It's over, you just have to give your custom suspenders or pair them with the kids outfits. Why not strapless floral fabrics to give a chic and cheerful side to a man's outfit?

Find all our printed patterned fabrics on this page to give you some suspenders creation ideas!